European camping road trip: a loop of France via Switzerland
One of the things you find yourself doing when spending a lot of time camping is enviably admiring other people’s set-ups. Some of our friends have an amazing camper van whilst we opt for a tent and load up our pick-up with watersports toys, using the tailgate as a campsite cooking station. Having spent 2018 admiring another of our friends’ gorgeous bell tent, we decided 2019 was the time to glamp up from our polyester sweaty family tent to the stylish world of a duck cotton canvas bell tent, and it was a great decision!
LAUTERBRUNNEN, SWITZERLAND
After an overnight ferry to France, a fitting first stop for our new bell tent was the Lauterbrunnen valley in Switzerland, a location where my husband had fond childhood memories. It didn’t disappoint, with a campsite organised to Swiss perfection, and surrounded by the kind of landscape that would get even the most sceptical camper yodelling from the hillside.
The most difficult decision is which parts of these beautiful mountains to explore. Our twins were five for this trip and they managed about 10km of hikes. Day one we started by taking the pricey but wow-worthy trip up to the 2,970-metre Schilthorn, famed for appearing in the 1969 James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. The children loved the breathtaking Skyline Walk and the Thrill Walk.
We then took the cable car down and picnicked at the playground near Mürren before hiking on down to Lauterbrunnun where we could pick up a bus back to the valley.
Day two we took the train up the other side of the valley to Wengen and hiked under the shadow of the Matterhorn.
PROVENCE, FRANCE
From Lauterbrunnen we had intended to have a few days on Lake Como in Italy but and impending storm diverted us into France earlier than we had expected and we headed straight for our campsite nestled in the gorgeous town of Eygalières in Provence from where we explored the stunning and scorching towns and villages of Provence amongst smells of lavender.
ARDECHE, FRANCE
France really is an extraordinary country, it really does have it all and it has amazed us countless times. The Ardèche was to add to this amazement, a scenic and refreshing river valley with gorgeous gorges and limestone cliffs. We spent the day here and took the paddleboards onto the river, if the twins were older we would have loved to try a longer canoe trip or white water rafting here.
CALANQUES, FRANCE
Heading west along the south coast of France (away from the crowds of St Tropez, Nice and Antibes, places which I love but not in the height of summer with kids), we visited another French natural wonder. The Calanques is a French National Park with steep-walled inlets from the Mediterranean sea.
are only accessed by foot (a long hike) or by sea. We ambitiously threw our paddle boards into the water at the Calanque of Port-Miou and headed out of the first inlet, to get to the next inlets you need to negotiate a stretch of coastline in the open sea so I wouldn’t recommend doing this on a paddle board unless you’re confident, we did see lots of kayakers too. Having made it to much camler waters we picnicked on the beach at Calanque d'En-vau before heading back, tired and exhilarated.
HYERES, FRANCE
Our next stop was the natural peninsula of Giens at Hyères. Some of my favourite memories from this trip are getting takeaway pizzas and sitting on the beach close to this campsite enjoying the sunset. We had a great day trip from here catching the boat to the stunning Île de Porquerolles. Hire bikes as soon as you arrive to explore the islands breathtaking beaches for the day, opt for an electric bike if you’re pulling children, it can get a bit rocky!
BAQUEIRA BERET, SPAIN
My husband was keen to see the Spanish mountains in summer having enjoyed ski trips there so we crossed the border for a couple of nights in Baqueira enjoying mountain walks and evening tapas.
BIARRITZ, FRANCE
Heading north along the coast through the Basque region and back into France we returned to my favourite French town: Biarritz.
I love this surf vibes French town especially La Grand Plage backed with chic stripy umbrellas and fronted with endless waves which I attempted to ride but had just as much fun tumbling under. The boutiques are the epitome of beach chic with endless espadrilles for sale on every corner. Rue Gambetta comes to life in the evening and you’re spoilt for choice with the eateries; we love ceviche bar Saline.
For the rest of the trip, we headed north up the west coast of France, stopping at places we had stayed at and loved the previous year.
MOLIETS-ET-MAA, FRANCE
Camping Huttopia Landes Sud is a pine-shaded and lovely campsite to use as a base for enjoying sandy days at the endless beaches of Hossegor, Moliets and my favourite Messanges, as well as lake days at Étang de Léon.
LAC D’HOURTIN-CARCANS, FRANCE
Another excellent Huttopia campsite at Lac d'Hourtin-Carcans is on a stunning lake with its own beaches with calm waters, as well as being close to the surf battered beauty of the west coast beaches.
ILE DE RE, FRANCE
Now becoming a firm family favourite of ours, Île de Ré is a gorgeous French island famed for oysters and wine. It’s picturesque villages with their buildings framed with colourful shutters and flowers offer a photo-opportunity at every corner, even the island’s donkeys look chic in their French-striped linen pyjamas.